Q: How should elite cyclists think about pedaling to maximize performance, speed, and endurance?
A: As someone who has spent years fitting bikes, coaching riders, and helping cyclists get every possible watt to the pavement, I can tell you this: Pedaling is one of the most important—and most overlooked—aspects of performance. It’s easy to focus on gear, training, and nutrition, but how you turn the pedals can make or break your efficiency, your endurance, and your results.
Let’s get something straight from the start: You don’t need a “perfect” pedal stroke. There’s no prize for pedaling pretty. What matters is consistency, power output, joint alignment, and minimizing fatigue. If your stroke looks a little awkward but you’re laying down the watts with control and without pain, that’s a win.
Cadence is where a lot of riders get tripped up. You’ll hear all kinds of advice—spin faster, grind slower, find your “magic” number. The truth is, your optimal cadence is personal. Most experienced riders end up in the 85 to 100 rpm range for endurance work on the flats. On climbs, cadence often drops closer to 70 to 80. But it’s not just about numbers. It’s about how your body performs across that range. Too fast, and your heart rate shoots up. Too slow, and you torch your legs. Smart training means being able to handle both ends of the spectrum depending on the terrain and demands of the race.
Then there’s the myth of “pedaling in circles.” It sounds good, but nobody actually applies power evenly throughout the entire stroke. Most of your usable power happens on the downstroke, from about 1 to 5 o’clock. The rest of the stroke is about control, not force. Trying to “pull up” too aggressively just brings in smaller muscles like the hip flexors, which aren’t built for sustained effort. Instead, you want a clean transition through the bottom and top of the stroke, with light engagement on the upstroke to keep the pedals moving smoothly.
Your setup matters here, too. Shoe stiffness plays a big role. I always recommend carbon soles for serious riders because they reduce energy loss. A soft or flexy sole means more of your effort is lost between your foot and the crank. That may not sound like a big deal, but over hours in the saddle or at race pace, it adds up.
Cleat position and float are also critical. If your cleats are too far forward or back—or if your float is too loose or too restricted—you can end up with knee pain, power loss, or both. Think of float like suspension on a race car. You want a little give so your joints can move naturally, but not so much that your form breaks down under pressure. A good bike fit will get this dialed in. Don’t guess.
During training, I encourage riders to pay attention to a few key things: Are you stable through the core, or are you rocking in the saddle? Are your knees tracking straight, or flaring out? Are you driving from the hips, or relying too much on your quads? Are your feet twisting or floating too much with each stroke?
Pedaling drills can help reinforce good habits. One-leg drills are especially good for identifying weaknesses. Cadence pyramids build control. And video analysis indoors can show you things you’ll never notice out on the road.
Pedaling is not about perfection; it’s about economy. You want the maximum return for every ounce of energy you invest. The most efficient pedal stroke is the one that lets you go harder, longer, and recover faster. And that only comes from paying attention, dialing in your equipment, and making small, smart adjustments over time.
Pedaling is the one thing you do constantly on the bike. Nail that, and everything else—speed, endurance, power, control—gets better.
Great tips, thanks Matt!